Koerner Leko 2022 Chardonnay

The picture-squee Adelaide Hills offer up some of Australia's most novel wines.

Orange, Pet-Nat, minimal intervention, biodynamic, organic, hand-picked--they're all fairly common from Kuitpo to Keyneton.

Essentially the philosophy is to choose a bountiful site (terroir), choose the right varieties (viticulture) and choose minimal intervention (wild ferment).

The Koerner family are grape growers from Clare for over 40 years.

Damon 'Damo' Koerner runs this boutique winery from Lenswood and sources his grapes locally, like this 2022 Chardonnay.

Hand picked from Piccadilly vineyards, his LEKO (LEnswood KOerner) spent 12 months in French barriques, 50% new oak.

Hence, it's very much in the Burgundian style.

Complex? You betcha!

White peach, green apple, nutty (almonds?), briny, spicy (curry leaf?) and slatey.

Phenolic too, which means you get funky depth and an extended finish.

Cutting edge wines like this demand interesting food pairings.

We had this with sautéed sweetly fresh calamari in a salsa verde with minty hints and finely sliced celery.

Skewered barbecued octopus with fermented green chilli and skewered barbecued quail with sweet n sour grapes both brought out the best in this superb wine.

Prosciutto on herby foccaccia straight from the oven suits too.

A traditional chicken with white wine sauce (coq au vin) or braised veal (blanquette de veau) would match like butter on bread.

A Chardonnay this good may just want a bit of Parmigiano Reggiano and sliced Granny Smith apple. 

It's a beautiful wine that demands attention and good company.