Gapsted 2017 Petit Manseng Alpine Valleys

Here's a rare variety not much grown in Australia, which is a pity because with a bit of age it broadens in palate and becomes increasingly complex while retaining a refreshing fruitiness.

Though the picture is a 2017 vintage, newer releases are consistently interesting and well worth seeking out.

Native to Jurançon in southwest France, cousin to Gros Manseng, the little one produces the best wines in the Manseng family.

Many from France are late harvest and sweet. Gapsted's is dry and savoury though pronounced peach and apricot notes shine through. Crisp apple too. Cheesy is another frequently used descriptor, as in fresh Brie, not stinky Muenster. 

When aged they develop more toasty characters, lose some of the jump from the glass fruit basket bouquet and gain more bready depth.

If we tell you an officially recommended pairing dish is brie, pear and thyme galette, you get a good idea of what flavour profiles best accompany this gorgeous wine.

We tried it with a classic pad thai and had zero complaints.

Linguine with prawns, lemon, garlic and chilli would work as well.

Cold poached chicken, mustard and mayo with salad? Of course!

Roasted ocean trout in parchment with smoked roasted tomatoes, fennel, spinach and tapenade would sing together like a Bach choral piece.

A not-too-hot goat curry with potato parathas would titillate too.  

Like with all superb and a tad unusual wines made from left of centre grape varieties, food mix and matching is a fun exercise.

Suck it and see.