Robert Stein Mudgee 2022 Dry Riesling

Stein is one of Mudgee's original wineries and it offers a quixotic range. The white port for instance makes an excellent summer apéritif but let's focus on this 'Dry Riesling'.

First, Mudgee is famed for reds. The infamous 'Mudgee Mud' from Shiraz and/or blends including Shiraz is high alcohol and densely reductive.

Second, Mudgee is temperate leaning towards warm where some varieties struggle to reach full complexity and end up like lolly fruit bombs.

Third, that should include Riesling.

In Stein's case, it doesn't.

Referencing the German habit of differentiating dry Riesling (tröcken) from sweet (auslese), Stein adds 'Dry' to the label.

Dry like Clare or Eden Valley Rieslings if you need further clarification.

Open this and whiff glorious fruit bowl complexity. Pear, peach, apple.

Bone dry mouthfeel, lingering finish.

We had it with a smoked salmon, tomato and pomegranate salad but it would also suit battered flathead and thick chips.

Try it with pippies, pancetta, butter beans in a winey sauce with lots of chopped parsley and good bread to sop up the juices.

Prawns are at their best now. Pair with them in a garlic, chilli oil with linguine.

A twice-baked Gruyère soufflé would make this lovely wine zing even more.

Don't drink it freezing cold. Let that bouquet breathe!